ONE OF THE most useful pieces of knowledge I’ve acquired is the proper cooking of rice. I was recently moved to Kingston and attending Queen’s University, sharing an apartment with two women who enjoyed wine and Moroccan, Thai, Persian, and Indian foods. Some years later I was living with a Chinese roommate who got me into the habit of using leftovers in the preparation of a Chinese familiarity, fried rice. The secret to a good fried rice, as I’ve already indicated, is the use of cold rice from the previous day’s meal.

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